The Revival of Horological History: Tom Van Willeck’s Journey with Lebois Co and Airain

In the world of horology, where luxury brands dominate headlines and market share, there exists a fascinating undercurrent of passionate entrepreneurs breathing new life into historic watch brands. Among these visionaries stands Tom van Wijlick, the force behind CDMLEC, responsible for reviving heritage brands like Lebois Co and Airain.

Tom’s journey into watchmaking wasn’t traditional. Beginning his career in IT, he eventually sold his company in 2011 and began trading watches as a side hustle. This hobby eventually led him to discussions with independent Swiss watchmakers about e-commerce opportunities. However, the real turning point came when Tom realized he wanted to create his own watch brand rather than simply sell others’. This epiphany led him down a path of researching defunct watch companies with potential for revival.

The revival process for these historic brands wasn’t straightforward. For Lebois Co, which Tom has been working on since 2014, there was virtually no intellectual property left. He approached the original owners, the Duden family in France, who gave him their blessing to revive the brand even though they weren’t actively pursuing it themselves. Airain was a different story, requiring an acquisition from a Parisian entrepreneur who owned some of the brand’s intellectual property.

What draws Tom to particular brands? It’s a combination of factors – the aesthetics of vintage designs, the historical significance, and even the sound of the name itself. With Lebois Co, Tom was captivated by a watch he discovered at a Christie’s auction, which he printed out and placed on his refrigerator for inspiration – a story his then-girlfriend (now wife) encouraged.

The technical challenges of reviving these timepieces are substantial. Tom emphasizes the importance of getting technical drawings perfect before moving to sampling, as corrections later in the process can delay production by months. With the Airain Submarine watch, Tom recalls spending hours with engineers to make the case 0.4mm thinner to achieve the perfect balance between dial and bezel – a seemingly small change that made a significant difference in the final product.

Tom’s philosophy about watchmaking balances historical authenticity with modern functionality. He notes that some vintage designs like the thin lugs on old Lebois chronographs simply can’t be reproduced with modern manufacturing techniques. Instead, he takes inspiration from these designs while creating watches that meet contemporary standards for durability and wearability. For tool watches like the Submarine, this means maintaining the rugged functionality while adding refined details that elevate the timepiece.

Perhaps most meaningful to Tom are the personal connections formed through his watches. He shared a story about restoring an 80-year-old gold Lebois chronograph for a customer who had inherited it from his uncle. The piece had tremendous sentimental value, as it was originally a gift from the customer’s grandfather to his uncle during a trip to Switzerland. Though financially barely profitable, the restoration project allowed Tom and his team to become part of this watch’s continuing story – a privilege he clearly values deeply.

As CDMLEC looks to the future, Tom is focused on expanding availability through a hybrid approach – maintaining direct sales online while developing relationships with retailers globally. New products are on the horizon too, including an enamel dial version of the Heritage Chronograph and a slimmer small seconds chronometer for Lebois Co.

What truly distinguishes Tom Van Willeck’s approach is his measure of success. While acknowledging the business realities since taking on investors, his primary metric remains customer satisfaction – seeing people happy with their watches. This passion-driven approach to business suggests that, for Tom, the revival of these historic brands isn’t merely commercial but deeply personal – a labor of love that connects generations of watch enthusiasts through time.