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The Best Releases From Watches and Wonders 2024

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Rolex GMT-Master II

In a significant first, the GMT-Master II in Oystersteel now features a Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic, introduced in 2023. Available in two new versions, one with the classic Oyster bracelet and the other with the elegant Jubilee bracelet, these watches stand out with their distinctive green 24-hour hand. This feature not only displays a secondary time zone but also symbolizes a connection to a special place, evoking personal memories and emotions for the wearer. The bidirectional rotatable bezel, with its two-tone Cerachrom insert, subtly reflects the passage of day into night, enhanced by platinum-coated numerals and graduations. Crafted in exclusive, corrosion-resistant Oystersteel, these GMT-Master II versions maintain their luster even under extreme conditions, embodying both the watch’s heritage and its resilience. The watch is powered by the Calibre 3285 movement, capable of handling two time zones, and offers a blend of comfort, robustness, and elegance, whether paired with the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.

Rolex Day-Date 40

The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40, reference 228235, exemplifies Rolex’s commitment to excellence and innovation. Crafted in 18 kt Everose gold, a unique alloy patented by Rolex, it features a distinctive slate ombré dial that progresses from a colored center to deep black edges, adorned with deconstructed Roman numerals and index hour markers in 18 kt pink gold. The fluted bezel, a Rolex hallmark initially designed for waterproofness, now stands as an iconic aesthetic element. This model boasts a 40 mm Oyster case with a Twinlock double waterproofness system and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens, ensuring water resistance up to 100 meters. The heart of this masterpiece is the Calibre 3255, a self-winding mechanical movement known for its precision and a 70-hour power reserve. Complementing its elegant case is the President bracelet, a symbol of refinement with its semi-circular three-piece links, crafted in precious metals. This timepiece reflects Rolex’s legacy of design continuity and technological advancement, seamlessly blending function and style.

Rolex 1908

The Perpetual 1908 emerges as a symbol of sophistication and artistry, now presented in 950 platinum with an exclusive ice blue dial, a color reserved for our most prestigious timepieces. This watch features a rice-grain motif dial created through the meticulous technique of guillochage, which intricately sculpts geometric patterns to produce a captivating play of light and shadow with every wrist movement. This design, centered around the small seconds counter, not only pays homage to traditional watchmaking but also showcases a unique personality. Encased in 950 platinum, known for its brilliant radiance and exceptional corrosion resistance, the 39 mm case reveals the intricate workings of the Calibre 7140 movement through its transparent back. This exquisite timepiece, combining performance with elegance, is completed with a comfortable and distinguished leather strap, asserting its place as a masterpiece of refined aesthetics and outstanding craftsmanship.

Zenith Defy Revival A3648

This timepiece is a revival of the 1969 Reference A3648, featuring an original octagonal case complemented by a distinctive 14-sided bezel made of steel and a unidirectional rotating bezel with an orange-tinted sapphire insert. The screwed-in crown enhances its durability, and it boasts an impressive 600M water resistance. At its heart is the Elite 670 automatic movement with a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4 Hz) and a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The watch displays hours and minutes at the center, has a central second hand, and a date indication at 4:30. The aesthetic appeal is heightened by the oscillating weight decorated with a “Côtes de Genève” motif. Priced at 7400 CHF, the watch features a stainless steel case with 60 ATM water resistance, measuring 37mm in diameter and 15.5mm in thickness. The dial is an eye-catching black and orange with SLN C1, matched with orange-painted hands and white transferred SLN C1 hour markers. It’s protected by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides and a transparent sapphire crystal case-back. Completing the design is a metal bracelet with a folding clasp.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

The Black Bay 58, a nod to the first TUDOR divers’ watch introduced in 1958 and renowned for its 200-metre waterproofness, blends historical charm with modern craftsmanship. This new Black Bay 58 GMT model marries the classic 39mm case size, reminiscent of 1950s style, with contemporary features. It boasts TUDOR’s new mid-size GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U, COSC and METAS certified, ensuring precision and reliability. The watch’s aesthetic is enhanced by a striking combination of burgundy, black, and gilt on the bezel. It features a 39mm stainless steel case with a polished and satin finish, a 20mm lug width, and a case thickness of 12.8mm. The self-winding mechanical movement is complemented by a bidirectional rotor system and an integrated GMT function, all protected under a domed sapphire crystal. This model, water-resistant up to 200m and with a 65-hour power reserve, is as functional as it is elegant. The stainless steel screw-down winding crown is adorned with the TUDOR rose, and the watch is finished with a 3-link “rivet-style” stainless steel bracelet with a TUDOR “T-fit” clasp. It comes with a five-year transferable guarantee, requiring no registration or periodic maintenance checks.

Grand Seiko SLGH021

Capturing the awe-inspiring beauty of Japan’s Genbi Valley, a designated Place of Scenic Beauty and Natural Monument, this Grand Seiko watch embodies the majestic essence of its namesake. Crafted in the heartland of Iwate Prefecture, where mechanical watches are artfully made, the timepiece features a dial that mirrors the valley’s grandeur through a novel molded pattern and a unique light-green hue. This model, a first in the Evolution 9 Collection, showcases the pioneering use of Ever-Brilliant Steel in both case and bracelet—a material celebrated for having the world’s highest corrosion resistance in stainless steel. Its white luster beautifully complements the dial’s vivid green, enhancing the watch’s allure. Powering this masterpiece is the Caliber 9SA5, a ten-beat movement offering a remarkable 80-hour power reserve when fully wound. The watch boasts a diameter of 40.0mm, a lug-to-lug length of 47.0mm, and a thickness of 11.7mm, with a band width of 22mm and a three-fold clasp for secure wear. Its box-shaped sapphire crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating, and it promises a water resistance of 10 bar and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m. Each piece in this limited edition series is uniquely marked with a serial number on its screw-down, see-through case back.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

The Duometre collection’s pioneering piece marvelously combines a platinum case with a copper-colored opaline dial, a choice that continues to captivate fine watchmaking enthusiasts. Its heart, the Calibre 391, boasts twin barrels and dual gear trains, unveiling a complexity of functions. These include a chronograph and moon phase at 2 o’clock, hour-minute and day/night indicator at 9 o’clock, and a central seconds hand in blue. Unique to this collection is the seconde foudroyante at 6 o’clock, circling a tachymetric scale. The technical prowess extends to its 42.5 mm platinum case, 14.2mm thickness, and 5 bar water resistance. Aesthetics are enhanced with appliqued numerals and a black alligator leather strap, which, though not interchangeable, is tailored for comfort and style. The manual-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 391, with 482 components and 54 jewels, vibrates at 21600 VpH and holds a 50-hour power reserve, showcasing the brand’s mastery in watchmaking.

Tudor Black Bay M7941A1A0NU-0003

The new Black Bay by TUDOR, a culmination of sixty years of diving watch heritage, is an iconic symbol of precision and style. This latest monochrome iteration comes with advanced design features and a “T-fit” clasp, all backed by a Master Chronometer certification from METAS. Its robust 41mm steel case with polished and satin finishes and 21mm lug width encases the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, a self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system, ensuring a 70-hour power reserve. The screw-down steel winding crown is adorned with an engraved TUDOR rose and a blue anodised aluminium tube, enhancing its waterproofness up to 200m (660 ft). It features a steel unidirectional rotatable bezel with a matt blue anodised aluminium disc, a domed black dial with silver-coloured hour markers, and is protected by a domed sapphire crystal. Completing this exquisite timepiece is a five-link stainless steel bracelet with a polished and satin finish, equipped with TUDOR’s “T-fit” clasp. This watch offers a five-year transferable guarantee without the need for registration or periodic maintenance checks.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar stands as a pinnacle of horological innovation, boasting a sophisticated secular perpetual calendar. This remarkable feature automatically accounts for the intricate leap year variations of the Gregorian calendar, omitting three leap years every 400 years. The watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured 52640 calibre movement, an automatic, self-winding marvel with an impressive 7-day power reserve, enhanced by a Pellaton winding system. Its rotor is adorned with an 18-carat gold medallion. The eternal calendar displays the date, day, month, and year in four digits along with a perpetual moon phase. Encased in platinum, the timepiece measures 44.4 mm in diameter and 14.9 mm in height. It features double box-glass sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating and a see-through sapphire glass back. The watch is water-resistant up to 5.0 bar, ensuring both elegance and resilience. This piece not only reflects IWC’s commitment to precision but also their mastery in marrying technical sophistication with timeless design.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon

Celebrating 25 years since the debut of the DATOGRAPH, A. Lange & Söhne unveils the exceptional DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON HONEYGOLD “Lumen”. Revealed at Watches and Wonders 2024, this masterpiece is a limited edition of 50, showcasing Lange-exclusive honey gold. This horological marvel seamlessly integrates a flyback chronograph, a precisely jumping minute counter, a perpetual calendar with outsize date, and a tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism, revealing its technical brilliance and elegant design even in darkness. The DATOGRAPH element signifies a flyback chronograph with an instantly recognizable Lange outsize date, enabling quick consecutive time measurements. The PERPETUAL aspect stands for the sophisticated perpetual calendar, perfectly synced with the Gregorian calendar and accommodating leap-year variances. Lastly, the TOURBILLON, a testament to A. Lange & Söhne’s innovation, features a one-minute tourbillon with a pioneering stop-seconds mechanism, enhancing the precision by negating gravity’s effects. This timepiece, beyond its luminous aesthetics, is a testament to the brand’s relentless pursuit of precision and artistry in watchmaking.